Ecuador | Birding the Chocó-Andes and Eastern Slope

Upon arrival in Quito, you'll be met outside the secured area of the airport and transferred to the hotel. Most flights arrive in the evening. No meals are included on this day. Quito's elevation ranges from 9,223 to 9,883 feet. To minimize your chances of experiencing altitude sickness, try to get plenty of rest, stay hydrated, consume high-carbohydrate foods, avoid alcohol and fatty foods, and avoid strenuous exercise at high elevations. Because we will start very early in the morning tomorrow and most travelers will be coming from much lower elevation, we recommend that you plan to arrive in Quito a day early (on 7/5) to acclimate to the very high elevation (additional cost for night in hotel).

Depart early for Mindo, NW of Quito, in the Chocó ecoregion. Make several stops en route along the Paseo del Quinde, also known as the Nono-Mindo Road. Your first stop is at Yanacocha Biological Reserve. Clinging to the slopes of Pichincha Volcano at an altitude of approximately 10,000 feet, and comprising 2,371 acres of mostly elfin Polylepis forest, this protected area was established to safeguard the critically endangered and endemic Black-breasted Puffleg. Other high-altitude species include Andean Guan, Rainbow-bearded Thornbill, Golden-breasted and Sapphire-vented Pufflegs, Great Sapphirewing, Sword-billed Hummingbird, Rufous and Tawny Antpittas, Ocellated and Blackish Tapaculos, Black-chested and Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanagers, Golden-crowned Tanager, and many more. Visit Zuro Loma field station then enjoy lunch at the Yanacocha reserve. Continue driving with quick stops to look for stunners such as Toucan Barbet, Plate-billed Mountain-Toucan, and Beautiful Jay. While driving down to the lower altitudes of the subtropical forest region, be on the lookout for Blue-winged Mountain-Tanager and White-winged Brush-Finch. Next, stop at Alambi Cloud Forest Reserve, where 250 species - including 32 hummingbirds - have been recorded. The reserve covers a large range of altitudes (4,750 to 7,210 feet) and spans two major basins: the Alambi Valley and the pristine Goaycape Valley. Regulars include Brown Violetear, Booted Racket-tail, Fawn-breasted and Green-crowned Brilliants, and Golden and Silver-throated Tanagers. Continue to Mindo in time for a program orientation and dinner.

This morning, visit Mindo-Nambillo Cloud Forest Reserve to look for the Plate-billed Mountain Toucan. Then travel to Milpe Bird Sanctuary, a 250-acre subtropical rainforest reserve with an altitudinal range of 3,350 to 3,770 feet and protecting an important tract of remnant forest in the Chocó foothills. The Chocó is an ecoregion and biodiversity hotspot that ranges from the Pacific coast of Colombia south to Ecuador, and it supports the largest number of restricted-range birds of any Endemic Bird Area in the Americas, with 62 species. Chocó endemics reliably found at Milpe include Pallid Dove, White-whiskered Hermit, Purple-bibbed Whitetip, Blue-tailed (Chocó) Trogon, Chocó Toucan, Esmeraldas Antbird, and Rufous-throated Tanager. Endemics that require a little more luck include Plumbeous Forest-Falcon, Long-wattled Umbrellabird, Glistening-green Tanager, and Moss-backed Tanager. The reserve is also famous for its numerous manakin leks, both Club-winged and Golden-winged Manakins. In the afternoon, visit the productive feeders at the family-run San Tadeo Birdwatching. The mix of birds here often includes standouts such as Violet-tailed Sylph, Red-headed Barbet, Crimson-rumped Toucanet, Flame-faced Tanager, Black-capped Tanager, Golden-naped Tanager, and more Chocó endemics: Brown Inca, Velvet-purple Coronet, Empress Brilliant, Dusky Chlorospingus, and Black-chinned Mountain-Tanager. Return to the hotel for dinner.

Spend the day at Mashpi-Amagusa Reserve, a 320-acre protected area in the Chocó foothills that functions as a critical link between lower subtropical forest and higher montane forest at neighboring Mashpi Lodge. The altitude here ranges from 2,450 to 5,600 feet. The birding is fantastic along this corridor, with many Chocó endemics that are difficult to find elsewhere, such as Rose-faced Parrot, Orange-breasted Fruiteater, Chocó Vireo, Moss-backed Tanager, Black Solitaire, and Indigo Flowerpiercer; a few, like Long-wattled Umbrellabird, require a little luck. Feeders on-site have many of the same hummingbirds and tanagers seen at Milpe and offer another great opportunity for photos. Enjoy a boxed lunch during the excursion and return to the lodge in the afternoon.

Depart early for the one-hour drive to Rio Silanche, another reserve owned and managed by the Mindo Cloudforest Foundation. At an altitudinal range of 985 to 1,150 feet, the reserve sits firmly in the western lowlands, a region of Ecuador that has experienced considerable change from logging, agriculture, and other pressures. Famous for its large mixed flocks, a stroll on the preserve's trails is rewarded with specialties that include Dusky Pigeon, Purple-chested Hummingbird, Orange-fronted Barbet, Stub-tailed Antbird, Black-tipped Cotinga, Slate-throated Gnatcatcher, Scarlet-breasted Dacnis, Gray-and-gold, Scarlet-and-white, and Blue-whiskered Tanagers, and many more. Continue to Mirador Río Blanco for lunch and to check out the feeders. Regular visitors include Green Thorntail, Crowned Woodnymph, Ecuadorian Thrush, and several euphonias and tanagers. Return to the lodge in the late afternoon.

Check out and start early with a visit to Refugio Paz de las Aves near Nanegalito (13 miles northeast of Mindo, at 4,590 feet). Angel Paz is the proprietor of this private reserve, and his story is an excellent example of community conservation. Angel was formerly a local logger who transformed his property into a haven for antpittas and Andean Cocks-of-the-rock over a decade ago. His early fame came quickly when he learned how to coax the rare and elusive Giant Antpitta into the open with earthworms. He now has six different species of antpittas staked out on his property: Giant, Yellow-breasted, Ochre-breasted, Chestnut-crowned, Moustached, and Scaled. Other incredible birds on the property include Lyre-tailed Nightjar, Rufous-bellied Nighthawk, Olivaceous Piha, Dark-backed Wood-Quail, Crested and Golden-headed Quetzals, and a fantastic mix of hummingbirds. En route to the hotel in Sangolquí, make a stop at the Mitad del Mundo Monument.

Spend a full morning birding along the trails at the privately owned Antisana Ecological Reserve (11,500 feet), whose varied ecological zones range from páramo to lowland rainforest. More than 70 bird species can be found here, including the Andean Condor, Giant Hummingbird, Carunculated Caracara, Black-faced Ibis, Speckled Teal, Andean Duck, Silvery Grebe, Slate-colored Coot, Andean Gull, Andean Lapwing, and Aplomado Falcon. At 18,900 feet, the snow-capped Antisana Volcano is the fourth highest peak in Ecuador, adding to the breathtaking Andean scenery that can be enjoyed along the lower elevation trails. Depart for San Isidro with a stop en route at Guango Lodge, another private reserve on the eastern slope above San Isidro at an elevation of 8,858 feet. Cooler and often shrouded in mist, habitats here include humid temperate forest, chusquea bamboo thickets, and swift mountain streams. The area is characterized by its more stunted trees, thicker canopy, cooler climate, and different bird and plant composition. The feeders at the lodge are often hopping with birds; enjoy close views of Sword-billed Hummingbird, Tourmaline Sunangel, Buff-winged Starfrontlet, Turquoise Jay, and more. Birds regularly found in the surrounding reserve include Torrent Duck, Andean Guan, Gray-breasted Mountain-Toucan, White-capped Dipper, Slaty Brushfinch, Lacrimose and Buff-breasted Mountain-Tanagers, and Gray-hooded Bush-Tanager. Later In the afternoon, continue to San Isidro Lodge. The lodge's private reserve forms an important bridge between the Antisana and Gran Sumaco Reserves, and the area boasts a bird list of about 330 species, many of which are more easily found here than anywhere else in the country.

Explore the area accompanied by your guide. The cloud forest reserve at San Isidro Lodge encompasses nearly 3,000 acres on the eastern slope of the Andes at an elevation range of 6,069 to 7,874 feet, making this an ideal base to observe Andean birds from the lower reaches of the temperate zone down into the heart of the subtropical zone. Nearly 500 species have been recorded in the area, and several - such as the mysterious "San Isidro" Owl and Peruvian Antpitta - are extremely local and rare. Birds regularly encountered include Wattled and Sickle-winged Guans, Golden-headed and Crested Quetzals, Masked Trogon, Andean Motmot, Southern Emerald-Toucanet, Powerful and Crimson-mantled Woodpeckers, Speckle-faced Parrot, Chestnut-crowned and White-bellied Antpittas, the beautiful Rufous-crowned Tody-Flycatcher, Black-billed Peppershrike, Green (Inca) Jay, Saffron-crowned Tanager, and Chestnut-breasted Chlorophonia.

Morning birding around San Isidro and then travel to WildSumaco Lodge. The eastern foothills of the Andes is one of the finest and most threatened areas for birding in Ecuador. About 500 bird species have been seen within the WildSumaco Wildlife Sanctuary and neighboring areas. This area stretches from Loreto Road (where the main highway crosses Rio Pucuno, elevation 3,800 ft.) up to the border of Gran Sumaco National Park (5,200 ft.). The road passing through the reserve offers great road birding, and this is one of many areas from which to see mixed flocks. Possibilities here include Blue-browed Tanager, Yellow-breasted Antwren, and Coppery-chested Jacamar. Many colorful species of tanager may be accompanied by Ecuadorian Tyrannulet and the recently described Foothill Elaenia; sometimes the Scarlet-breasted Fruiteater makes an appearance. We’ll also see North American migrants and over 30 species of hummingbird. At night, Band-bellied Owl, Rufescent Screech-Owl, and Foothill Screech-Owl often call from nearby. The lodge sits at a perfect elevation around 4,600 feet.

Early breakfast, followed by birding on the trails. From WildSumaco's trails, you may see Gray-tailed Piha, Blue-rumped Manakin, and Chestnut-crowned Gnateater. The very rare Yellow-throated Spadebill has territories along several of the trails, and at any time the endangered Military Macaw or rare Spot-winged Parrotlet might fly by, or Black Hawk-Eagle soar overhead. Lunch at the lodge. This afternoon enjoy viewing an Antpitta feeding session then continue birding around the grounds before farewell dinner this evening to say goodbye to those not traveling on the optional extension to the Amazon.

After morning birding and breakfast, travel back to Quito. [Those taking the extension will start the drive downslope to Coca and then travel by boat to La Selva Lodge.]

Transfer to the airport for the flight home.